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SLED DOGGING!
Through the silence rang the vibrant sound of
silence. The frozen crust of the snow popped and
snapped like corn in a hot kettle. Hulking cocoons
fell from atop the pines that lined the path and
scattered snow dust in a fine, misty powder upon the
sled dog team.
“On through, on through” called Ed Stielstra to his
dogs as they came to a fork in the long meandering
path.
From
snow’s first fall through early May, Natures Kennel
conducts dog sledding adventures for the general
public. You can be taken for a two-hour ride, or, if
you have an adventurous spirit, Ed and Tasha will
give musher lessons. After about an hour of
training, you can then elect to actually mush the
sleds on a 50-mile, overnight trek through the
unseen regions of the Eastern Upper Peninsula.
I happen to produce a television program that
features outdoor activities that families can enjoy
together. When searching and researching stories for
my program, I look for activities that are not
reserved for the extreme. I know that the “extreme”
makes for visually stimulating imaging, however,
these extreme activities rarely make a good stories.
They also do little to inspire the typical person to
pry themselves off the couch and take part. Upon
discovering the Steilstra’s story I quickly realized
that this adventure is the perfect answer for those
adventurous folks asking the question, “What do you
want to do next weekend?”.
Learning to mush sled dogs across the barren Upper
Peninsula in 20 degree weather may not be someone’s
first choice of things to do on their day off,
however, if you dig deeper, you may realize that it
is the perfect adventure vacation. I mean, heck,
doesn’t almost everyone like dogs? Anybody can
appreciate the beauty of a beautiful winter day
where at any moment you can see a deer weightlessly
spring across the trail in a single bound. As a
child, I remember that one of my favorite winter
past times was sledding. So it all makes good sense.
Dogsledding is a combination of all the things we
love to do, you just don‘t know it…yet.
OK, I realize that there are down sides to an
activity like this, but lets look at it from a glass
half full perspective. First, lets tackle the issue
of cold. In today’s advanced society, manufacturers
have developed such a thing as warm clothes. Today’s
materials protect people from biting cold to a level
of 40 degrees below zero. Its true! According to
Tasha Stilstra, the most common complaint from the
participants is being too warm. I should have heeded
her advice as I ended up shedding most of my
clothing because I was sweating like a hockey
player. Every one of the guests on my trip had the
same problem. Evidence of that was the numerous
pairs of gloves, socks, and t-shirts that were hung
from a line to dry over the wood burning stove at
the end of the first day.
As far as the actual act of sledding, it’s a snap.
For me, it was the challenge of learning something
new that made the experience even more enjoyable. Ed
and Tasha spent more than a significant amount of
time with the guests teaching us how to properly
harness the dogs, hitch them to the sled and what to
do in the event of you slipping off the sled. Its
rather amazing to watch the transformation of the
guests from a somewhat timid, uneasy spectator, to a
confident, excited participant. Bill Walters, 45 of
Fenton, says “ Its amazing. You constantly hear
stories of how sled dogs are vicious, unyielding
animals.” Bill continued as he hugged and snuggled
with his furry team leader, “ I have found it to be
quite the opposite. These dogs are the most loving,
docile animals I have ever come across”
As much as I hate to deviate from the sledding
experience, I think it is important to expound on
Bill‘s comment for a moment. Perceptions about
cruelty to sled dogs are the “pebble in the shoe” of
a sport, that in reality, is very humane to their
animals. “Bill‘s sentiment seems to ring true with
most of our guests” Stated Tasha, “ and I hope that
an experience like this goes a long way to dispel
the engrained thought that sled dogs are mean due to
mistreatment.” As a matter of fact The Steilstra’s
take pride in the fact that they have won multiple
humanitarian awards for the impeccable care of their
animals. As a matter of fact, a veterinarian
overseeing a checkpoint at the 2006 Iditerod stated
“this is one of the best kept teams I have ever
seen” An affirming comment for the Steilstra’s who
consider their dogs to be “their kids”.
I assume I have you hooked at this point. I mean,
after all, there’s nothing stopping you from having
the time of your life on a dog sled adventure once
the common concerns are addressed. All you need now
is an open mind. “ If you come to try a dog sled
adventure and expect to get cold, you will get
really cold” says Tasha “ I f you come and think
that you may be afraid of the dogs, you will be
really afraid of the dogs.” Great advice as I have
visited the Steilstra’s on three occasions now and
the response from the guests mirrors this
philosophy.
The typical overnight sled dog adventure starts at
about 10:00am, however, your day starts as the sun
starts to crest the jack pine and birch filled
forest, an eerie wolfish howl shatters the silence
of the dawn , followed by another, and then ten
more. Then fifty, and a hundred. The chaos of yelps,
barks, groans, and dog chains envelop the once still
air. It’s nature’s alarm clock. Soon, the sound of
tin pans bang, and the soothing sounds of the
handlers greeting their friends with their morning
meal arise. It’s at this time you begin to realize
you are in for an experience of a lifetime. As you
eagerly roll out of bed, your heart starts to beat
with the same enthusiasm as the dogs that are
anticipating their day’s activities.
Around ten the fun begins. You are introduced to
your dog “team”. Mine were “Yzerman“, “Hatcher”,
“Datsuk” and five other overactive players. “Those
guys are the hockey team,” said Ed “ When that
litter was born we knew we had our hands full. They
were active, and mischievous so we named them after
a bunch of hockey players” Fine by me. Remember,
open mind! After a lesson of how to harness and
drive (mush) the team, we received a demonstration
of how to fall and keep from being dragged. All I
really got from that speech was simply “Don‘t let
go!” We then removed the dogs from their houses and
walked them one by one to the sled that was chained
to a 3-inch diameter metal spike driven multiple
feet into the ground. The anxious dogs howled,
leaped and shook uncontrollably with excitement. I
watched their spike bend and heave the frozen ground
with their every tug. “ These guys are wired to
run,” said Ed. “Obviously all the dogs can’t go on
the trip and the ones that are left behind get
pretty upset. “. As our group boarded the skinny
little sleds and situated ourselves on the thin
runner I glanced over my shoulder to see a dog named
Maple. Maple was lying pitifully on her doghouse,
head on paws, looking off the top of her brow. I
kind of felt bad for her. Ed was right. They do get
upset. So much for cruelty.
It was finally time to go. One of the number one
rules to dog sledding is to NOT to let go. It was
something that was in the back of my mind as they
unhooked the chains that held the sled. “Don’t let
go!“ immediately became forethought as the dogs
shifted into GO! This, perhaps, is the most
intimidating part of the whole trip. There is no
slow acceleration. It is just go! If you can get
over that, everything is cake from there. Really it
just takes some adjustment and a few minutes to get
your balance. Two or three times of starting and
stopping and it is old hat.
Our trip was more than anyone can possibly imagine.
The trail system gently wound through an endless
array of pine forests, inland lake shorelines, and
open fields which exposed natures most delicate
treasures. Frost glinted the reflection of the sun
on the various leaves and thistle stalks that lined
the trail. Once running, the dogs quickly quit
barking. The silence was amazing. The stealth manner
in which we traveled allowed us to sneak on various
types of wildlife that you would never see by
snowmobile. Without a hint of fear, white-tailed
deer, snowshoe rabbits, and red-tailed hawks, sat
and curiously watched us as we passed.
The trail system led us through the Tahquamenon
National forest. We were traveling through the heart
of some of the most beautiful land in the world.
Just to the north of us was Lake Superior where you
could explore ice volcanoes made by waves that
crashed harshly into the shoreline. To the east was
Tahquamenon falls, which is even more beautiful to
see in the wintertime than the summer. To the west
was the famed Pictured rocks which is spectacular to
explore and ice climb this time of year. This area
is truly a winter wonderland and we were exploring
it in a fashion that few people will ever know.
Funny, in the midst of wonderment and encompassing
awe, I began to feel sorry for the folks who aren’t
brave enough to get off the couch and try something
new. This really is easy. The next trip, I will be
bringing my teenage daughter.
As quickly as the day started, the day came to an
end. It was like the time you met the love of you
life on a dinner date. The next thing you know you
spent ten hours talking and dawn rose. This was the
same. I was sad day one was over but more was to
come.
We anchored the sleds and removed the dogs from
their leads. Hay was supplied for their bedding and
we fed the dogs their evening meal. “This is how we
do it at the Iditerod” said Ed as he patiently went
from one dog to the next painstakingly searching
their paws for cracks or bruising. This experience
is as close to the Iiditerod experience as you can
get without being there. Ed who has raced the
Iditerod three times makes sure that every detail of
the overnight trip mocks the real experience. From
the tent and bunks that you sleep in, to the hobo
dinners cooked over an open fire, to the dogs that
you used to get to camp. All are genuine articles of
the Iditerod.
After a relaxing evening of campfire stories about
the Iditerod, coffee, stories about Iditerod, Hot
cider, and more stories about the Iditerod it is
time to turn for the evening. Winter camping is not
what you would think. Once again, open mind. “There
are bonuses to winter camping” says Ed “ There are
no mosquitoes, or people in motor homes with
generators running to keep you up all night. Good
point. Everybody had a different idea of what they
may be in for the night but their fears were quickly
laid to rest. Bunks with hammock type bottoms lined
the walls of the tent. There was enough space to
sleep 8 people and a wood burning stove stood in the
corner that kept the tent at the “bug in the rug”
status. It was no Sheraton, but you would not be
getting a dog sled ride if you were staying at the
Sheraton. It was I trade off I was happy to make.
Morning came soon as I was awakened to the smell of
eggs and bacon …and sausage, and pancakes, and
coffee. As I stretched, I overheard others share
stories of how well they had slept. The dogs were
again yelping with excitement, and a big smile came
upon my face for I knew we had another full day of
sledding. It doesn’t get any better than this.